Batik as Uniquely Indonesian

Some of batik motives

Batik is unique
The same artist asked to paint again – it can’t be the same

Intrinsically Indonesian, yet viewed by some as a product of the past, batik is being targeted to capture a new generation.

Batik is deeply entrenched in the Indonesian psyche. Despite production by other countries, Indonesian continues to think of batik as uniquely Indonesian. Many government organizations and some private companies also require employees to wear batik once a week.

Traditionally, batik refers to fabric decorated painstakingly by hand using hot wax and then dyed to create a pattern in reverse. Villages developed patters and colors so distinctive that a connoisseur could tell from sight alone the specific source of certain motifs. Central Java is particularly well known for the quality of its batik. Cities like Pekalongan, Solo (previously Surakarta), Cirebon and Yogyakarta vie for the title Kota Batik or Batik City.

Batik tulis

Malam (wax) and canting

At the high end, crafting quality batik takes many hours. Batik tulis, literally ‘handwritten; batik, involves hundreds of designs drawn painstakingly on the cloth by hand using hot wax applied with a copper stylus called a "canting". The cloth is then dipped in dye to create a reverse pattern and the wax scraped off. Depending on the complexity of design, this may be repeated more than 20 times, with a day between dyeing to dry, It’s like a painting.

Batik cap

A cheaper alternative is batik cap, where designs are stamped on manually. These days, machines print simplified batik motifs directly onto cloth (usually polyester or rayon) for a mass-produced version, referred to as printed batik.


The price range is wide. A cheap print shirt can go for as low as Rp. 20,000 (US $2.18) while its handmade tulis counterpart in silk might retail for a few hundred dollars. There is no shortage of buyers at the high end of the spectrum, a nod to the buying power of Indonesia’s famously moneyed elites. Batik tulis, the haute couture of traditional fabric, occupies a social niche. Exacting Indonesian aesthetics mean that the Javanese version of batik tulis cannot be recreated anywhere else in the world. It can also easily take four months to produce one piece.


Yet it is the history of batik that works against the product when it comes to the younger generation. They view it as being very traditional.

Today’s batik remains a predominantly domestic product. According to the newspaper Media Indonesia, government statistic in 2006 placed batik exports at US$110 million – just 34 per cent of a total production worth approximately US$322 million. In all, the batik industry employs nearly 800,000 people. The domestic market is the dominant one. Today’s batik comes in a mind-boggling variety of shapes, prices, cuts and colors to target the youth market.

Batik can be seen in home décor, ceramic-wear and accessories. Citos, a popular youth mall in Jakarta, offers a glimpse of how the product is moving into popular culture. On a Tuesday night the floor is filled with busy kiosks, one-fifth of them devoted to batik, cut and stitched into garments that mimic the swinging loose tunics and wide hippy skirts sold at trendy stores such as Zara.

No one disputes that innovation is necessary. Yet as batik takes on a modern cast, one hopes the appreciation of the traditional process won’t be lost. Batik is unique.

Finding the best batik Central Java has traditionally been a prolific producer of batik. Yogyakarta, Solo, Cirebon and Pekalongan are just a handful of cities in which the tradition survives. Much of these producers’ work makes its way to cities around the world, but it’s worth going yourself to pick up unique, one-of-a-kind pieces. Jl Malioboro in Yogyajarta is a good place to go to see the work of these artisans. For printed batik, you can try local malls, markets or even department stores. There are also batik stores at many airports. Producers profiled (main showrooms): * Allure: Jl Kemang Raya 27A, Jakarta Selatan. * Bin House: Jl Teluk Betung 10, Jakarta Pusat. * Danar Hadi: Jl Melawai Raya 69-70, Jakarta Selatan. * Iwan Tirta: Jl Wijaya XIII No 11A, Kebayoran baru, Jakarta Selatan.

Traditional Cloth of Madura

East Javanese house and its traditional weapon - clurit (and traditional clothes of the island of Madura)

In Indonesia which consists of some ethnic groups, every ethnic group has its own characteristics in clothing. For Madurese people, especially those living in Sumenep, the type of dresses is distinguished as follows:
1. Daily dress
2. Ceremonial dress
3. Common people’s dress
4. Elite people’s dress
5. Nobleman’s dress

Dress for Common People
For men the dress called peso with black colour. The pants also black colour and loose below the knee. This dress is fit out with a leather belt on which there is a pocket.
The Madurese call it “Sabbu tepa kole” and a Lead-clothe or “odeng”. Besides as a supplement, a “sarong” also worn crossways over the shoulder.

East Javanese house (and traditional clothes of the island of Madura)

The women wear a dress called “baju sono” or “baju kurung”,
”sarung poleng” which is green or red varied with conspicuous colours. Wearing a belt called “sivet” and a long shawl called “sarong bini” worn crossways over the left or right shoulder.
As the supplement of the daily dress, man as well as woman wear “gamparan” (slippers made of wood).

Ceremonial Dress
Ceremonial dress worn by men consists of “baju pesa”, “celana kombor” (loose pant), “odeng”, “selempang sarung” and “sabbu kale tepa”. This dress is fit out with a grandeur weapon such as “taka buwan” namely grass knife, big and long grass knife.
The women wear “baju sono” which is the same like worn daily, but the ceremonies dress is better than that worn daily.

Daily Dress for Parjaji
Daily dress which is worn by men is “baju taqwa” which looks like “surjan” with white buttons. This dress is fir out with “sarung Polekat” with a belt called “epek/stagen” to slip a creese and a head clothe called “odeng peredan.

The women wear a black “baju sono”. At the end of the long sleeves there are buttons made of silver, sarong with purer Madurese batik motive decorated of animals, leaves print and “stagen”.

Ceremonial Dress for parjaji
The men wear white “baju taqwa” with buttons made of silver or gold “adeng peredan”, long batik clothe not pleated. If the clothe is pleated then its pleats are wide and aslant.
There is prohibition for parjaji to wear clothe with a motive of “parang rusak”. Whereas the women wear baju sono. The clothe worn is “songket” long clothe and wearing “epek” or belt made of soft clothe. In former times, a parjaji either a man or a woman, was always accompanied by five servants when attending a party. The foremost one, carried a lamp or torch, those in the rear carried a container called “ekecohan” and grandeur umbrella.

Dress of Noblemen
The dress of a noblemen is almost similar with that worn by parjaji. The difference lies only in its supplements.
The man wears “ellogan”, namely belt wrapped in soft clothe to slip a creese. The colour of the “epek” is red or yellow and wear “odeng tongkosan” (tongkosan head clothe).The women also wear a dress which is worn by women of parjaji group.
If a nobleman attends a ceremony, he wears a black coat made of liken clothe embroidered with gold, a long clothe, wearing beautiful creese chained with melati flower. Head clothe worn is “odeng Sunda”.
Young nobleman wears “baju taqwa” when attending a ceremony; whereas the woman wear “baju sono” like that worn by the parjaji group. The noble women wear “sono” dress made of red velvet, dark blue or dark green, with long sleeves at the end of which there are six gold buttons. The dress worn has gold pin and belt or “epek” made of soft clothe. A clothe with a motive of “sidomukti” pleated in Madura style. A gold bracelet is worn on the ankle.

Bride Gown
There are three traditional bride gowns, worn one after another for three days. Bride gowns for parjaji and arja group are as follows:
-The first night, is “dilega” dress. The bridegroom does not wear a shirt whereas the bride wears a “kemben” a (clothe worn around the chest). This dress is attached with decoration worn on a neck, fingers and arms.
-The second night is the “kraton kepotren” dress. The bridegroom wears a black coat with lace, black “liken” made of pants; whereas the bride wears long black “kebaya” with velvet laces full with its decorations.
-The third night, either the bride or bridegroom wears a dress to attend a common ceremony (“taqwa” dress and “sono” dress).

Bride Gown for Common People
As the wedding ceremony of “parjaji” and noblemen is carried out three days, the wedding ceremony of common people is carried out only one day, but the bride gown changed three times.
On the first meeting, the bridegroom wears white “jubah” (tabard) in Arab style, the bride wears long white skirt complere with the head clothe.
On the second meeting, the bridegroom wears a black coat with a necktie, wearing a “sidomukti” clothe and “belangkon” head clothe typically Madurese, decorated with a creese on his back. And the bride wears a long “sidomukti” clothe and “kebaya”.
On the third or the last meeting, the bridegroom wears pants, a coat, a necktie and a head clothe. Whereas the bride wears a long skirt or long cloth and “kebaya”.