Batik as Uniquely Indonesian

Some of batik motives

Batik is unique
The same artist asked to paint again – it can’t be the same

Intrinsically Indonesian, yet viewed by some as a product of the past, batik is being targeted to capture a new generation.

Batik is deeply entrenched in the Indonesian psyche. Despite production by other countries, Indonesian continues to think of batik as uniquely Indonesian. Many government organizations and some private companies also require employees to wear batik once a week.

Traditionally, batik refers to fabric decorated painstakingly by hand using hot wax and then dyed to create a pattern in reverse. Villages developed patters and colors so distinctive that a connoisseur could tell from sight alone the specific source of certain motifs. Central Java is particularly well known for the quality of its batik. Cities like Pekalongan, Solo (previously Surakarta), Cirebon and Yogyakarta vie for the title Kota Batik or Batik City.

Batik tulis

Malam (wax) and canting

At the high end, crafting quality batik takes many hours. Batik tulis, literally ‘handwritten; batik, involves hundreds of designs drawn painstakingly on the cloth by hand using hot wax applied with a copper stylus called a "canting". The cloth is then dipped in dye to create a reverse pattern and the wax scraped off. Depending on the complexity of design, this may be repeated more than 20 times, with a day between dyeing to dry, It’s like a painting.

Batik cap

A cheaper alternative is batik cap, where designs are stamped on manually. These days, machines print simplified batik motifs directly onto cloth (usually polyester or rayon) for a mass-produced version, referred to as printed batik.


The price range is wide. A cheap print shirt can go for as low as Rp. 20,000 (US $2.18) while its handmade tulis counterpart in silk might retail for a few hundred dollars. There is no shortage of buyers at the high end of the spectrum, a nod to the buying power of Indonesia’s famously moneyed elites. Batik tulis, the haute couture of traditional fabric, occupies a social niche. Exacting Indonesian aesthetics mean that the Javanese version of batik tulis cannot be recreated anywhere else in the world. It can also easily take four months to produce one piece.


Yet it is the history of batik that works against the product when it comes to the younger generation. They view it as being very traditional.

Today’s batik remains a predominantly domestic product. According to the newspaper Media Indonesia, government statistic in 2006 placed batik exports at US$110 million – just 34 per cent of a total production worth approximately US$322 million. In all, the batik industry employs nearly 800,000 people. The domestic market is the dominant one. Today’s batik comes in a mind-boggling variety of shapes, prices, cuts and colors to target the youth market.

Batik can be seen in home décor, ceramic-wear and accessories. Citos, a popular youth mall in Jakarta, offers a glimpse of how the product is moving into popular culture. On a Tuesday night the floor is filled with busy kiosks, one-fifth of them devoted to batik, cut and stitched into garments that mimic the swinging loose tunics and wide hippy skirts sold at trendy stores such as Zara.

No one disputes that innovation is necessary. Yet as batik takes on a modern cast, one hopes the appreciation of the traditional process won’t be lost. Batik is unique.

Finding the best batik Central Java has traditionally been a prolific producer of batik. Yogyakarta, Solo, Cirebon and Pekalongan are just a handful of cities in which the tradition survives. Much of these producers’ work makes its way to cities around the world, but it’s worth going yourself to pick up unique, one-of-a-kind pieces. Jl Malioboro in Yogyajarta is a good place to go to see the work of these artisans. For printed batik, you can try local malls, markets or even department stores. There are also batik stores at many airports. Producers profiled (main showrooms): * Allure: Jl Kemang Raya 27A, Jakarta Selatan. * Bin House: Jl Teluk Betung 10, Jakarta Pusat. * Danar Hadi: Jl Melawai Raya 69-70, Jakarta Selatan. * Iwan Tirta: Jl Wijaya XIII No 11A, Kebayoran baru, Jakarta Selatan.

Privacy Policy

Thank you for visiting this site.

This site serves search text ads via Blogger on google.com, and also serve contextual and placement-targeted text and display ads on the Google content network (AdSense). By using the site, you are accepting the practices described in this privacy policy. This privacy policy describes what personal information will be collected and how it uses it.

We use third-party advertising companies to serve ads when you visit our website. These companies may use information (not including your name, address, email address, or telephone number) about your visits to this and other websites in order to provide advertisements about goods and services of interest to you. If you would like more information about this practice and to know your choices about not having this information used by these companies, click here.

Routine Information Collection
All web servers track basic information about their visitors. This information includes, but is not limited to, IP addresses, browser details, timestamps and referring pages. None of this information can personally identify specific visitors to this site. The information is tracked for routine administration and maintenance purposes and never sell your personal information to third parties.

Log Files
As with most other websites, it collects and uses the data contained in log files. The information in the log files include your IP (internet protocol) address, your ISP (internet service provider, such as AOL or Shaw Cable), the browser you used to visit this site (such as Internet Explorer or Firefox), the time you visited this site and which pages you visited throughout this site.

Cookies and Web Beacons
Where necessary, it uses cookies to store information about a visitor's preferences and history in order to better serve the visitor and/or present the visitor with customized content.

Advertising partners and other third parties may also use cookies, scripts and/or web beacons to track visitors to this site in order to display advertisements and other useful information. Such tracking is done directly by the third parties through their own servers and is subject to their own privacy policies.

Controlling Your Privacy
You can chose to disable or selectively turn off our cookies or third-party cookies in your browser settings, or by managing preferences in programs such as Norton Internet Security. However, this can affect how you are able to interact with our site as well as other websites. This could include the inability to login to services or programs, such as logging into forums or accounts. Disabling cookies for all sites is not recommended as it may interfere with your use of some sites. The best option is to disable or enable cookies on a per-site basis. Consult your browser documentation for instructions on how to block cookies and other tracking mechanisms.

This privacy policy adapted from blogsthatfollow.com

Updated 27 March 2009

Traditional Occupation - Endangered Species

A couple “traditional occupation” that consider close to extinction. Some were deemed outdated, while others were regarded simply as ‘having no future’. One thing for sure, most of these jobs were gone because they could not compete with the advancement of new technologies which have caused a shift in the pattern of human’s behaviour.

Here their stories…

Becak driver

Becak (tricycle) Driver
Becak is a form of environmental-friendly transport. Once upon a time, becak was more favored type of public transport. Many people preferred to use becak as form of transportation to enjoy the city atmosphere. Even more, many schoolchildren were driven to and picked up by parent’s regular becak driver.

Not only the number of becak decreasing, rarely the driver were still at young age. The younger generation prefer to be ojek (motorcycle-taxi) driver then a becak driver. Not only because driving a becak needs more man-power energy, but also the image of a becak driver itself were far from ’cool’, hence the discreditable popularity among youngster. If this attitude remains, it is almost certain that the profession of becak driver will be extinct because there is no regeneration while the elder were too old to drive.

Postman
There are times when the arrival of postman created a specific excitement among residents of the house. An incoming letter often creates thrill for the recipient. The letter can bring bad or good news, coming from a family, close friends or even lovers. Either one, each of residents at home presents their own enthusiasm to the postman for he has bought the letter to the house.

The advancement of communication technology presents us with e-mail, mobile phones and fax machine, thus providing easier, cheaper and faster modes of communication. ‘Snail’ mail o longer popular. Postmen have lost the enthusiasm of letter’s recipients, of house’s residents. Many of the envelopes he sends around were no longer personal letter but bills, invoices or advertisement. Nowadays, postmen compete with advertisement of technology to steal public’s heart.

Weight Scale-man
The man always brings weight scale every day walk around the neighborhood and yell out “Weight scale!” without paying attention to the burning sun. His service is to scale someone’s weight, and they have to pay Rp. 500-1,000,-. It is very cheap, indeed, especially nowadays when the price of weight scale has become cheaper in addition to commercially entertaining weight scale we can find in malls and department stores.

A weight scale man daily income is very small, they sometimes work as scavengers to be able to fulfill their basic needs. Usually, their regular customers are children. But now, almost every household have a weight scale, putting the weight scale-man’s job to rest.

Tukang Sayur (Vegetable/fresh Produce Seller)

Tukang Sayur (Vegetable/fresh Produce Seller)
In the last couple of years, we can still hear a vegetable-seller yelling out “veggies..veggies..” around our neighborhood. At that moment, housewives and housemaids were coming out of their homes approaching this seller to buy some fresh produce for daily consumes. The surging crowd clamoured for a negotiable price while selecting goods and sharing local neighborhood gossips spreading from the vegetable-cart.

With the rise of new technology, mobile vegetable sellers have become more and more difficult to find. The new advancement in technology more often than not has change individual habit and routines, including these sellers’ habit. They improve their services with the help of new technology. Now, their regular customers no longer have to wait for their arrival in the neighborhood, a short message through mobile phone to these vegetable sellers is enough. Then, the vegetable seller will send a courier to deliver their order right to their front door.

Photo Reproduction Kiosk

Photo Reproduction Kiosks
The advancement of photography technology has become more apparent nowadays, from the traditional photography with negative film to digital photography. With the new technology, photograph reproduction can be performed in a faster and more efficient manner. An outlet that provides photo reproduction services will be able to print a couple hundred photos in a couple hours. We only need to wait 1-2 hours to print a photo in that outlet. Even a home printer nowadays can print a photo with good resolution and a quality comparable to those photo reproduction service outlets.

Prior to the digital age, to print a photo in those outlets we need to wait up to 4 days long for it to be finished. Not a long time ago, several photo reproduction kiosks were standing in front of many well-known university. With conventional printing technique and pertomaks (a petrol-lantern) as its lighting, this service was quite popular. These kiosks offer their own benefits such as cheap and quick compared to big outlets.

Farmer - planting padi

Farmer
Farmer used to be the most important job in our country, Indonesia, with its overflowing natural resources and its fertile land where it needs these farmers attend to this blessing. However, the development of this country has left fewer fields for farmers to work on. Moreover, some possibilities may also be the reason why this job become marginalized, such as its low-ranking image, their unstable income, their exclusion from prosperity that has been ignored by the government and many other possibilities.

Now farmers are the old generations whose energy has been consumed by the burning sunlight and heavy works. Their children prefers to work as an ojek driver, mechanic or technician or move to big cities to get a job, any job. Some of the young generation, who decided to work as farmers because of their love of their hometown, have become scarce.

Housemaid
A housemaid as a discourse urban society is a confirmation that modern society is unable to face the basic foundation of their life: domestic life. While life has become harder, technology will always make everything easier and user friendly.

Domestic duties, which were considered nuisance, nowadays can be completed in one touch. In a world of high technology rules where some robots have take over human’s ‘heavy’ duties… where would the housemaid belong?


Mobile Barber
He doesn’t work as a beauty salon or barbershop: he is a DPR (Di bawah Pohon Rindang = under the shades of trees) barber or a mobile barber moving around with his bicycle selling his haircut skill.

This type of job still exists around us, although threatened by its competition with barbershops, which offer comfortable places and similar price. The changing trends of hairstyles also become the reason there mobile barbers lose from the competition.

Their regular customers might be one of few reasons this occupation still exist. Some people sometimes trust only one barber to cut their hair, but this is about style.

The horse chart as a public transportation only used for a short distance in Bali

Horse-dawn Carriage Driver
Horse-dawn carriage was one of the main forms of transportation used by Indonesia people. However, with the rising popularity of fossil-fuel vehicles, horse-drawn carriage has been marginalized by those new technologies. Cars, motorcycles and carriages were competing for a space in the road. Moreover, the lack of regeneration has reduced the number of these carriages and only to be found in several areas.

Temulawak Rhizomes - Traditional Herbal

Fortunately, all plants – though many still unknown – give benefits, one form of these benefits is as medicine. Meet temulawak, its roots are highly beneficial, and believed to be equivalent rival to Korean ginseng.

Temulawak - Curcuma xanthorrhiza

The practice of concocting medicinal herbs has been going on since our ancestor generation. In ethnic traditional society we can still found someone who acts as a ‘healer’. Although they often associated with magic and supernatural power but searching deeper to their healing medium, more often than not, they use many kinds of plants.

Temulawak itself has been acknowledged as one powerful medicinal herb. This type of plants is specifically Indonesia. Although its dissemination is only in Java, Kalimantan and Maluku, many people bring along the plant for its benefits. It was even exported to some countries.

This plant grew in a meadow close to residential area, especially on the fertile soil, so that the fruit and rhizome can grow large. Temulawak is a form of herbal plant with stem. It has broad leaves each connected with slender stalk. Temulawak also has unique clustered flowers both in low ground and high ground up to 1500 metres above the sea level.

Temulawak which also known as koneng gede in Sundanese, does increase appetite. In Center Java, many parents give their children its concoction to increase their appetite.

Temulawak - Curcuma Xanthorriza Roxb

Temulawak rhizomes were known as a medicinal herb for a long time. Temulawak or Javanese turmeric or also known as Curcuma Xanthorriza Roxb, was believed to have anti-aging effect, remove skin fleck and improve muscle flexibility. New mothers were also suggested to consume this herbal drinks according to Javanese spiritual belief. It is also believed to be the cured for kidney diseases, asthma, headache, gastric pain, stomach-ache, constipation, even acne.

This rhizome is a family member of Zingibereaceae, mostly grow in tropical forests and consist of 29-3- percent of curcuminoids (the substance that causes yellowish color in the rhizome), and 6-10 percent essential or ethereal oil (also known as aestheric oil). In addition to that, temulawak also comprises of chemical substances such as phellandrence and tumerol, which often called vaporized oil. It also has camphor, glucoside and polymetic carbinol.

This plant, which can reach up to two meters tall, has ethereal oil with a specific scent that can kill microbes. On the other hand, its flavonoids can be an anti-inflammatory agent. Thus, it is a medicine of anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-hepotoxic and anti-tumor. Also, temulawak believed to abate the pain and suffering from cancer.

As a cure to cancer, temulawak should be drunk in early stage or straight after operation to remove the cancer or radiation therapy. This is to remove leftover cancer cell. Moreover, for patient treated with chemotherapy, the concoction should be drunk two weeks after the treatment. If the doctor gave medications, the drink should be drunk two hours before or after consuming medications.

The consumption of temulawak extract is highly recommended to prevent liver diseases including hepatitis B, which known to increase the risk of liver cancer. In addition to that, the extract was also proven to lower blood’s cholesterol level also within liver cells.

Temulawak as Jamu

Where can we find ready-to-consume temulawak? This question might take us to think of jamu-seller or a drinking kiosk in the street with bottles of beras-kencur (traditional drink made of ground rice and Kaempferia galangal rhizomes mixed with palm sugar), and temulawak concoctions or else temulawak in capsule.

Temulawak - Traditional Jamu in modern packaging

Temulawak most often associated with jamu (Javanese traditional herbal drinks). Temulawak is one of the main ingredients to make jamu. Even in its modern packaging, we can still find jamu label on the package. Unfortunately, Indonesian traditional medicine is less popular compare to chemical medication. This is our biggest harm to our country. It is unfortunate, especially since we have an abundance of natural resources accompanied with many giant jamu factories. In addition to this, there are a fair amount of experts and socialist which can be useful. Worse off, when people decided to consume medical herbs, they prefer foreign herbs especially those coming from China.

It is not difficult to make jamu out of temulawak, although it is important to understand that different concoctions were made for different kind of treatments and to heal different kind of illnesses. For instance, the useful component of temulawak mostly used for concoction is its curcumin essence. This essence can reduce cholesterol level in human body. However, to lower down the level of bad cholesterol in our blood is not as easy as drinking any kinds of temualwak drinks we can easily found in the kiosk on the street corner.

Temulawak does contain many things. One substance that gives characterized smell and taste is aestheric oil. This oil can increase food appetite. While resin (the dark brownish, sticky substance, which doesn’t dissolve in the water), is unhealthy and needs to be removed.

According to National Agency of Drugs and Food (NA-DFC)’s clical test with Gajah MAda University in Yogyakarta, boiling temulawak is aw ay to take out the resin. If you tried to reduce your cholesteron level, it is best for you to consumed processed temulawak that has curcumin as its dominant substance.

For patients afflicted with complication such as heart attack or stroke, it is safe to drink temulawak infusion. Temulawak as a modern medication is safe to consume by anyone with any illness or at any age. This is the advantage of traditional herbs, it doesn’t have side effect.

Taking the most out of temulawak with the help of technology, experts and specialists can raise the availability of temulawak and providing its potential benefits effectively. Thus, temulawak can be the host of herbs in its own home country. Just like Korea know as a ginseng country, who knows one day Indonesia will be known as temulawak country.

Historic Ubud - Bali (continues)

The Ayung River winds its way through several Ubud villages on its way to Sayan and on to the sea.

The Royals

Skipping ahead almost a millennium, we come to the founding of the royal house in the greater Ubud area. In the 17^th century, a rebellion occurred in the royal house of Gelgel, the then-capital of Bali, which started a surge of many small skirmishes and conflicts between royal houses. Nine kingdoms finally emerged (eight of which are now the established regencies in Bali, with the Mengwi kingdom absorbed into the others when it was defeated in battle in the 1880s).

In the early 1700s, the Dewa Agung Jambe (king) of Klungkung sent his son, the Dewa Agung Anom Wijayasunu, to Sukawati (called Timbul at the time) to found a palace there and establish a centre of power and beauty. Many artists and artisans from Klungkung and Mengwi came to build the palace in Sukawati, which was one of the finest in the land. Once their job was over, the artists did not want to go home and they remained there.

In the late 1700s, Puri Sukawati sent two of its retainers to the Ubud area as administrators to secure the area. Gusti Lanang Dauh formed the community of Padang Tegal (where Hanoman, Sugriwa and Jembawan streets now are) and the younger cousin Gusti Made Taman went further north to Taman (north of the main road in Ubud and east of the market). A fierce rivalry existed between them and fighting broke out between the two villages. In order to pacify the Tjokorde Ngurah Tabanan to Peliatan and Tjokorde Tangkeban to Sambahan, Ubud (a village north of the market and puri) to establish palaces and authority.

The younger brother of Dewa Agung Gede, king of Sukawati, I Dewa Agung, reigned in Peliatan from 1775-1800. It was here that he established a puri in Peliatan in order to guard against incursions from Mengwi and to expand the power base, again bringing with him an enclave of artists as well as people from every caste. His half-brother Tjokorde Batuan also built a puri in Peliatan. The kingdom of Peliatan ranged from Tegalalang to Mas and included Ubud village. Batuan’s older brother, Tjokorde Made Kandel, was sent to Mengwi to become sovereign there. The oldest son Tjokorde Putu kandel, went in search of holy water (tirthayatra).

Tjokorde Made kandel (who had ‘disappeared’) wanted to see the battlefield. The Pe;oatan troops numbered only 16, whereas Mengwi had thousands. Tjokorde Putu Kandel stepped onto the battlefield brandishing the keris Ki Betara Batukaru (said to have such magical powers that the enemy would flee) and the Mengwi army did indeed flee. Tjokorde made Kandel was not pleased with this and went to see why his soldiers had retreated. He got quite a shock when he realized that the Peliatan army was not being led by his uncle, Tjokorde Putu Kandel! They embraced and all was well. In fact, people fro Mengwi came to Ubud to help populate the area. All of this took place in the village now known as Tanggayuda (place of battle) around 1800.

From 1850-1880, the grandson of Tjokorde Putu Kandel, Tjokorde Rai Batur, became king and this is when Ubud began to really prosper. Batur was more inclined to steep himself in spiritual rather than military matters. The next sovereign was the pious Tjokorde Gede Sukawati (1880-1917). Rice was in abundance and the economy was booming. At this time a number of sacred in various temples around Ubud.

In the mid-19^th century, the new Dewa Agung (king) of Klungkung began and anti-Dutch campaign. Mengwi was defeated at this time and its land divided up between the victors. The punggawa (district leader) of Negara near Sukawati aligned himself with Klungkung and wanted to take over Sukawati, which extended throughout all of Western Gianyar, including Peliatan and Ubud.

The next ruler was a spiritual leader but, by default, became a great military man as well. By mustering forces from Peliatan, Ubud and Tegalalang, the Tjokorde Gede Sukawati, in 1890, was able to defeat Negara and occupy itslands all the way from Ketewel to Taro. The Tjokorde had a special keris, which, by simply piercing the earth would make the enemy run away. He also had a special power called bau siu whereby the enemy thinks it’s seeing many more soldiers than are actually there. Many more political intrigues and battles took place with the Dutch helping to fuel conflicts among the rivals.

Tourism and the First Westerners

The 1930’s saw the first real development of tourism on the island of Bali. Much of this was centre dint he Ubud area due to the entrepreneurial savvy of Tjokorde Gede Agung Sukawati. Tjokorde Gede Agung was born in 1910. At an early age he moved in with an uncle in Puri Belaluan in Denpasar, across the street from the Bali Hotel. At age fifteen, he stopped school and began his work as a ‘guide’ by approaching the guests at the nearby hotel and picked up English and Dutch languages. At the age of seventeen, he married (his first wife of eleven!) and moved back to Ubud where he established a small guest house in the Puri Saren Agung (now run by his son Tjokorde Gede Putra Sukawati). In that same year, 1972, his older brother Tjokorde Raka Sukawati from Puri Kantor across the street invited the composer-painter Walter Spies to come to Ubud to live, where he did for the next eleven years. Spies, along with other resident foreigners, such as Willem Hofker and Rudolf Bonnet, both painters, began to entertain celebrities from far and wide, including Charlie Chaplin, Noel Coward, Barbara Hutton, H.G. Wells and Vicki Baum, who in turn told their friends about Ubud. The Tjokorde Agung was instrumental in developing tourism in Ubud as he made very visitor feel like family.

When the Balinese talking about magic, they mean actually something completely different. The power of magic is still revered to in Bali, where more than 90 percent of the population accept magic as a part of daily life.

Boom Times

In the ‘70s, backpackers and researches alike flocked to Ubud. The serene atmosphere was conductive for painters and one could study music and dance with some of the greats. It only took a brief fifteen years before Ubud changed from a sleepy, dirt road village of the past into the bustling tourist town it is today. Yet still Ubud remains a draw for artists, dancers, musicians, students and anthropologists of all stripes.

Even in the 21^st century, Balinese firmly believe in the power of the unseen world. There is a tiny tree with six branches on it that lives inside a box within the Pura Batukura temple in Ubud. This tree sprouts kepeng of Chinese coins on it which reflect the economic tenor of the times. The last time the box was opened, there were four coins in it. In the 1960s, during the economic crisis, there were just three. Tjokorde Gede Oka Sukawati stated that perhaps at the end of the 19th century, during his grandfather’s time, that there might have been six.

Rangda.. the Widow who turn herself into balck magic world and transformed herself into monster.

Another barometer of sorts for Ubud is a celulak mask, which is used in the tale of the black magic dance-drama, the Calonarang. This mask was given to a Western couple back in the 1960’s as a wedding gift. It traveled around the world with them, bringing nightmares to those in close proximity. The woman recipient was said to unhitch herself off walls and float around her house. Finally she has came to rest in Puri Saren and if you are out around one in the morning, you will see her lurking in front of the Puri. A paranormal told Ubudians that she has come here to protect the people of Ubud. There are numerous stories like these.

Kecak Dance - Ubud, Bali

Why is it that the Ubud area has such a rich artistic tradition? Some will tell you it is the beauty of the land, but there are places far more breathtaking than Ubud on the island. Others will tell you it is due to the spiritual energy created by the confluence of the river waters at Campuhan. Whatever it is, Rsi Markandeya was the first to discover what visitors have been coming back to for centuries.

Addapted from material prepared for the book ‘Ubud is a Mood’ by Rucina Ballinger

Historic Ubud - Bali

Historic Ubud - Bali

"Today the entire world is a museum available to those who have the desire to see. In this museum, Bali is one of the most impressive collections, and while I have seen relatively little of Bali, I am convinced that Ubud is the principal gem of the entire collection. Ubud contains not only the precious mementoes of Bali's glorious past but also the living representations of its impressive present and hopeful future. Some may worry about the change that modern energy and drive will bring to Bali, but I do not. The creative urge of the Balinese, the natural instinct for beauty and contentment, will prevail." - 17 September, 1959, C. McVicker, of Jakarta; in a Puri Saren Agung Ubud guestbook.

These women all seem to be princesses vying for special roles in an ancient Asian pageant. Their finery, however, is part of daily traditional style in tis village

Those words, written almost half century ago, could still be written today. Even though enormous changed have occurred on the island in the past twenty-five years, particularly in the tourist enclaves which include Ubud, there is still a feeling of balance that prevails. Ubud is indeed one of Bali's many gems.

In the beginning Ubud itself was originally a small portion of land centred around Campuhan (meaning 'rivers meeting') and the puta (temple) Gunung Lebah. Yet Ubud, as it is known in the 21^st century, spans many villages and is a kecamatan (district), and kelurahan (sub-district), as well as a desa (village).

In the West, history consists of tangible events and things that can be recorded. In Bali, history and life itself consists of the seen or conscious world (sekala) and the invisible or psychic realm (niskala) and Balinese are able to move between there two worlds with easy. One could not exist without the other. Therefore, some of the tales about to be told may seem fantastical to the visitor, but to the Ubudians it is a part of their history. Magic keris (daggers), cannibalistic giants and coin-sprouting trees may serve as allegories but they also stand on their own, as you shall soon see.

A lontar (traditional palm leaf book)

Almost all sources begin Ubud's history with the coming of the great Hindu Indian mystic sage, Rsi Markandya in the 8^th century. A lontar (traditional palm leaf book) called the Markandya Purana describes how he spread Hinduism throughout Bali. He had been told to journey east from Mount Raung in Java and to convert the inhabitants of Bali to Hinduism. Bali had a reputation of being filled with dangerous spirits and many travellers never returned. walking through Java, he made his way to Bali with 800 followers. His goal was the holy mountain of Gunung Agung, where Besakih temple stands today. However, his followers succumbed to a cholera epidemic and, in fear for their health and safety, he took those who survived back to Java.

The temple of Pura Gunung Lebah in Campuhan, on the fringes of Ubud.

While in Java, he received a divine revelation that he was to return to Bali and bury panca dhatu (five precious metals which are buried under temples to give them more power) at the place where Besakih temple is today. he returned with four hundred followers. From there, he was drawn to a place in the central part of the island which was pulsing with light and energy: Campuhan, Ubud. Here, where two branches of the Wos River (named Lanang and Wadon, or male and female) meet in a confluence, he settled, meditated and built the temple Pura Gunung Lebah (Low Mountain temple). These two rivers swirl around each other as two naga (dragons or serpents) might do. The naga in the Balinese belief system symbolise all that sustains humanity: shelter, food and housing and, of course, spiritual sustenance. The water in the Western branch of the river is used for holy water in local temple festivals and the water in the Eastern branch is used for cleansing oneself; both physically and metaphysically.

Rsi Markandeya founded many temples along the Wos River. In the most northern part of his journey, he built the first (some claim) Hindu temple on the island: Pura Gunung Raung (later named Pura Agung) in the village of Taro. Just north of here in the village of Puakan (Pa-subak-an) the sage created the unique irrigation system for rice fields called subak and divided up the lands among the small populace at that time. He is also credited with the formation of the banjar (hamlet, subdivision of a village) and desa (village) systems.

The Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Kirana, the relationship of humans with their environment (subakor rice fields), humans with each other (banjar or hamlet) and witht he Supreme Being (desa ot village, represented by the three main village temples) was first established here by Rsi Markandeya. Subsequent sages and priests have developed and expounded upon this but this was the foundation of Balinese Hinduism in its purest form, called appropriately Agama Tirta or 'Religion of Holy Water'.

Campuhan is indeed a special centre of power. People have been meditation here for centuries and bathing in its curative waters which spurt out of pancoran or fountains along the river banks. In 1961, this site was chosen as the place to form a religious body recognized by the Indonesian government and known today as Parisadha Hindu Dharma Indonesia, a symbolic tribute to Rsi Markandeya's founding of Hinduism in Bali over a millennium before.

The name Ubud is derived from the word 'ubad', meaning medicine, and refers to the myriad variety of healing plants found along this riverside and in the surrounding environs.

Historic Ubud - The Royals (continues..)